It supports a new guidebook to the route which will be published by Cicerone. Since the tide was also covering the path that crosses the strath of this glen, I had to walk to the right of the glen and only crossed to the left of the river when the glen narrows. Ignore it and continue straight on or you’ll get badly lost. Aber an meiner Navigation muss ich noch arbeiten. Nach der zweiten Nacht am Strand setzen wir den Rucksack zum letzten Mal auf. But after a while the track peters out and you are left to find your own best way over the rough terrain. Since I’d walked a few miles of B&H’s recommended route north of Strathcarron the day before, after setting up the tent at the hotel, I didn’t feel too guilty about missing the tiring trudge up the road. Am Ende des Tages finde ich einen traumhaften Zeltplatz an einer Ruine mit Bach. As the track turns east the vast bulk of Gulvain, a 987-metre high Munro, shows itself. Despite completing several other long-distance walks I fell into this category and I can happily report that if I can find my way for over 100 miles across Britain’s last wilderness (despite losing my compass at one point), then most people can. B&H say that you ‘may well have to scramble’  to reach the headland next to the adjacent glen. I took the Great Glen variant, which is an easier start to the … As long as you walk most of your chosen route, most people would say you have earned the right to say you’ve done it. We talked about the rocks of the area and I asked him about some sheets I’d seen on the moorland above Kinlochewe two days earlier. I was planning on completing the West Highland Way, which I did, and then hoped to do parts of the extremely difficult Cape Wrath Trail. CWT Section 3. The prospect fills me with excitement and anticipation with a fair smattering of fear! Then I thought: why didn’t the people who came this way before me build a little cairn, or an arrow, showing the right way. In a rare  moment of pique, they shrilly report that “pedants” had removed signs put up by the landowner that advised walkers to trek around the boundary of the forest – and that this removal could have literally caused the death of inexperienced walkers. And, depending on where you come down from Gualann nan Osna, you might be north or south of the tree-on-rock. “Near where you came through the kissing gate on the way here did you see four stones sticking out of the ground?” said Willie. The path remains poor and relatively obscure as it winds down and across the face of the hill into Glen Elchaig, occasionally skirting the top of rock faces. Brücken sind auch toll! The alternative was a walk along a busy main road, and finishing the journey by train over the Glenfinnan Viaduct seemed the more interesting option. At this point I did wonder if I could I just follow the glen north all the way to the loch. Trouble is, there are a lot of rocks and a lot of trees in and near the river. Meine Entscheidung, über die Halbinsel Knoydart zu laufen, konfrontiert mich, wie in den Foren versprochen, schon sehr früh auf meiner Tour mit einem der schwersten und wildesten Streckenabschnitte. Mit einem kleinen Umweg beheben wir unseren Navigationsfehler und als ich mich am späten Nachmittag gegen Windböen stemme, würde ich die gern wieder gegen den Nebel tauschen. Then I thought: if I could follow the river to Lochan nam Breac, further up the glen, I could pick up the ‘defined’ path from there without all the hassle of having to go up the side of the glen. An Ausrüstung ist schon vieles da. Pfade. Unfortunately, if you’re at Attadale, the only way north is via the road or the railway. He mumbled something about Morvich and the fact that he didn’t tackle the Falls of Glomach because he didn’t have trekking poles (I missed the falls out too, but not because I didn’t have any poles). At the tip of the loch you turn right and enter a wood via a gate, walking uphill on a rough boggy path that may be hard to find. After Culloden in 1746, Bonnie Prince Charlie was sheltered by allies near the glen. Since there is nowhere to stay there they must assume that walkers will wild camp. Last year when I walked the trail I kept a pretty good pace, and my experience on recent trips showed me that 5 km/h is a reasonable pace for me. As the track begins to descend, it enters a narrow gorge which forces you to clamber from rock to rock and jump from one side of the river to the other. What this means is that when the tide  is in at Loch Nevis then you have to scramble over some big, big boulders to get around to the mouth of the River Carnach in the glen next door. Einige lange Abende fiebere ich mit Bloggern, notiere mir Hinweise zu Strecke, Ausrüstung und Übernachtungsmöglichkeiten. But first there was an 8am bus journey back down the road to the crossroads at Drumsallie, where B&H’s CWT starts in earnest. I thought I’d have a quick break there. Aber wir wollen doch laufen! Im Spätsommer soll es losgehen – aber leider macht mir der Job zunächst einen Strich durch die Rechnung. Despite some wet and wild weather, I was never uncomfortable during the hike and felt prepared for any meteorological scenario that may have occurred. Needless to say, I hadn’t built a little cairn or an arrow at the bottom either. No path,” remark B&H. May be. Then I thought: I can’t get any further up the glen to the lochan because there’s a cliff in the way, so this is surely the right place to ascend. Wir nähern uns langsam dem Cape. The view from Loch Eil. I trudged up the road and, while dodging camper vans, at least had the advantage of seeing how the mountains in this area near Torridon were changing shape. I brief, I wondered later just where this bloke had walked. Immer wieder ist auch der Leuchtturm zu sehen. B&H’s comical advice at this point is that you should turn left at the burn ‘at a point identified by a tree on a rock’, walk upstream for about 1km and then head NW up the side of the glen. Mein Vorhaben beeindruckt und ich werde von ihnen mit zusätzlichem Proviant versorgt, bin noch Tage später vom Inhalt der einen oder anderen Tüte überrascht. I find this hard to believe because the forest isn’t that big and your instinct, even if lost, would be to walk north and down hill to the road to Kinlochewe. Day Five: Shiel Bridge to Camas-Luinie in Glen Elchaig – ten miles? Der CWT führt von Fort William zum nordwestlichsten Punkt Schottlands, dem Cape Wrath. I could imagine hunter-gatherer people living down there in ancient times. The descent was interesting through the rocks and past numerous deer, all watching me sceptically. The real walking now begins. It all seems obvious now. Dafür gibt es abends ein trockenes Dach über dem Kopf. Mein großes Abenteuer ist zu Ende. Im Westen ist das Meer zu sehen. This track cuts steeply upwards through the forest north of the A890 and marks the route of an old drove road between Torridon and Craig – which is where Gerry’s Hostel stands. The CWT can certainly be a rough, tough walk – probably the toughest in Britain – but it needn’t be off-limits to all but a band of ‘been there, done that’ walking elite. As you head west on an easy track you see the A’ Chuil bothy over to the left (perhaps to be considered an alternative to camping at Strathan) and after that you are soon approaching a large area of plantation and deciduous woodland. Blog; Hiking the Cape Wrath Trail – Part 5. Es schmerzt erst heftig, bleibt aber bei einem Schreck. Im Zelt ist es so schön kuschelig:-) Aber die Dusche auf dem Campingplatz tut gut. The second chance to get lost comes after you’ve reached Lochan Fada and are asked to navigate a short distance to a second, out-of-sight, body 0f water, the much smaller Loch Meallan an Fhudair. Bin erschrocken, wie schnell man die Orientierung verliert. “Oh, I’m only interested in the rocks,” he said. Haldane said that the glen was probably used by drovers moving their cattle from Skye in ancient times. In June, the main drawback of the bothy was that I had walk a good quarter of a mile back to the River Finiskaig to collect fresh water because the springs around the bothy had dried up. Ich erreiche die Maol Bhuidhe Bothy. Wie auf dem Foto in meinem Buch. Leider muss ich am nächsten Morgen feststellen, dass die Sachen in so einer Hütte kaum trocknen. Yet when we talked about his route, it became obvious that we were following different trails to the same destination. Ist zu zweit ja auch viel sicherer bei solchem Wetter! The new Cicerone guide will recommend a new route variation north of Ullapool,  perhaps adding to the sense that the CWT is whatever you want it to be. One of the pleasures of doing the CWT is summer is the profusion of wild flowers. As you plod from the loch the jaws of the pass seem like portals to another world and any feelings of isolation you have up here have will probably be magnified. If you like, use this post to tell readers why you started this blog and what you plan to do with it. But if you put some effort forward, you'll see some pretty spectacular scenery and get a damn good taste of the Scottish highlands. Please consider subscribing to my channel it's free and really helps me out, thank you! Ich weiche nach und nach durch, verliere meine Gamaschen und auch kurz die Orientierung. Welcome to WordPress.com! The Cape Wrath Trail is a long distance walk from Fort William to the northwesternmost point of mainland Britain, Cape Wrath. This is the one B&H use on their official route. In Glasgow angekommen, habe ich schnell meine Gaskartusche und mein Zugticket. On the face of it, it doesn’t seem right that you should have to walk the best part of ten miles west to the sea on a route to the north. Feiner Sand und dazwischen ein paar schroffe Felsen. Die Stimmung wechselt mehrmals am Tag, wird von ganz einfachen Dingen beeinflusst. By coincidence a certain charity athletic event was taking place the same day and so this area was full of competitors warming up in preparation for their 50-mile run-and-bike event. From the bridge the track drops to Coulin and Loch Coulin. http://www.1745association.org.uk/Long%20March.htm. The post, minus its sign, iron gate and cairn mark the official route through the pass – if you can find them. The Cape Wrath Trail takes you to beaches, glens and mountaintops that see very few humans pass by in a year. And after a while you come to a dead end, which is the sheer drop of a waterfall. Am Ende der ersten Woche kämpfe ich mich bis Morvich durch. I offered the crofter some money for his fuel and bother. Beim Zusammenpacken fängt es bereits an. How selfish of them not to. Den ganzen Tag geht es nur mühsam voran. Nur die vielen schwarzen Punkte an meinen Händen, alles Zecken, stören etwas. Further on the path crosses a burn and you need to find a bridge 100m upstream, state our favourite guides. Wir beschließen, direkt am Ufer auf den Steinen weiterzuhüpfen. This one began with the way-too-expensive Scotrail sleeper to Fort William. However, the profusion of pretty bog wild flowers here, as well as the occasional leg-breaking hole in the ground, should help keep your mind off the leaden feeling in your legs. B&H remark that the descent to Sourlies is ‘unsparing, undefined and steep in places.’ It is steep, yes, but it is on a clear path and, as you descend further, you may, as I did, enjoy intoxicating natural perfumes blending the smells of wild flowers, wood and water. I was initially confused by this pass because I had been expecting to see a lochan at the bottom of it. Whatever the case, the track marked by the big green sign on the A890 is a short cut to the Coulin Pass if you decide to stay at Gerry’s Hostel. To me, the reputation can’t be due to the length of the daily sections;  many long-distance paths have much greater daily mileages. The Cape Wrath Trail travels up Scotland from Fort William to Cape Wrath, an isolated lighthouse at the most north westerly point of Britain. This is basically a big scenic detour and I’d already identified a different and more direct route into Glen Elchaig on the map. But a gorge? Wilderness was one reason I was doing this walk – seeking out a few reminders of the Jacobite rebellion, and learning some social history of the glens which supported it, and later suffered Hanoverian vengeance as a consequence, was another. It's often touted as Britain's toughest long distance walk, due to its pathless sections, remoteness, and Scotland's fierce weather. Der Cape Wrath Trail führt durch die Schottischen Highlands über 350 km von Fort William nach Cape Wrath (nördwestlichster Punkt der Insel Großbritannien). Lochan a Mhaim: a little bit of heaven on earth. Although I still think it’s difficult to tell from OS where the lochan is in relation to the top of the pass, the water creeps into view at the far right-hand end of the pass as you come over the top. Day 6 Spine Route. This is true, but I could see vehicle tracks heading up and down the burn on the far bank. The Cape Wrath Ultra® is Scotland’s finest multi-stage ultra running event. Looking towards Sourlies from the River Finiskaig. Er ist kein offizieller Wanderweg und nicht ausgeschildert. Und auch der Kontakt per Handy in die Heimat. You know the feeling: a rail ticket in your pocket; a rucksack that seems far too heavy; and feelings of excitement about the adventure to come. On Blogger since November 2011. That’s because the road to Strathcarron, the A890, is busy, initially steep, has blind bends and no footpath. (Post-script: one walker I met recently said she had got lost on this part of the walk and spent an hour fruitlessly chasing tracks along the river rather than going up the glen. Das Zelt ist in die Jahre gekommen und wird genau wie die Isomatte durch eine leichtere Variante ersetzt. The Cape Wrath Trail is considered the hardest hiking route in the United Kingdom. And when alone-ness starts to feel more like loneliness, don’t you gain sight of the emotional landscape that lies within your own hidden self? Just before Gulvain you turn left off the track and begin the gentle ascent north over boggy ground to a rocky outcrop called Gualann nan Osna. The Cape Wrath Trail (CWT) is a walking route beginning in Fort William and ending at Cape Wrath on the north western tip of Scotland. Since there were a multiplicity of steep surfaces and rock faces I went for the nearest slope I could scramble up, the one covered in bracken, and hoped I would find the path eventually. But this is one of those rare OS errors because there is no bridge – something to bear in mind if you come this way when the river is in spate. Day Four: Kinloch Hourn to Shiel Bridge – 9-10 miles. It’s a very rough pass, furrowed by shallow gullies and strewn with boulders towards the top. I moved to the  left and stumbled across peat gullies to another mound. They don’t disappear overnight, even if some information in North to the Cape is out of date. Der Weg ist tatsächlich ein Weg. A rarely seen example of a human being heading down to the pass. An account of an attempt by Peter D. Brown to retrace the Prince’s escape route across the Highlands, indeed across some of the terrain just covered in this part of the CWT, can be read at  http://www.1745association.org.uk/Long%20March.htm. Although the track is yet to be noted by the OS Explorer map for this area, it is marked by a big Scottish Rights of Way Society sign on the road about a kilometre south of Gerry’s Hostel. Das sind die Momente, für die ich draußen bin. But the clue to finding the right location is that you ascend the glen where you can’t follow the river on its left bank any more. Even so, I decided to get more distance under my feet and followed the little river that flows into the loch from the north, towards An Teallach, tomorrow’s path to Dundonnell and one of the walk’s great views of a glacial landscape. Yet the outdoor shop bloke said he’d walked north east up the Caledonian Canal before turning left and north somewhere or other. Dafür hat man streckenweise die Wahl zwischen verschiedenen Varianten. Die Sonne bessert zwar die Laune, aber trägt ihren Teil zur Erschöpfung bei. B&H suggest you could have lunch here – but you can also spend an hour happily browsing the guest books and collection of that little magazine you often find in out-of-the-way places like this, Rough Stuff. Ich liebe Wanderkarten und würde mein Handy nur im Notfall benutzen. Where you come out at the river depends on your route down the hill. From here you are on an undemanding descent to the formal gardens at Attadale at the north end of Loch Carron. There are a million different variations, directions, and ideas when it comes to this route. „Die Expedition Ihres Lebens: 200 Meilen durch Schottlands wildeste und schönste Landschaft.“. The Cape Wrath trail is considered one of the most spectacular and challenging walks in the UK. These looked nice but the hostel at Glenfinnan was £14 and that won the argument at this stage of the journey. It wasn’t, so I headed to the top of the next mound. Bei ein paar Tageswanderungen auf der Insel Skye vor einigen Jahren hat mich die Landschaft sehr beeindruckt. You can cut a few corners on published itineraries, miss out some short but dull road-walking sections by getting a lift (I and some other walkers I met did so), and still get one of the best, perhaps the best (and few remaining), experiences of true wilderness walking in Britain as you head north. In fact, this whole site is designated as a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest) owing to its lichens, dragonflies and native pinewood species – although the condition of this latter feature is currently classed as ‘unfavourable.’  However, the wild flowers pushing through the debris are a  reminder that new life is coming through the soil. After this the track moves more or less gently uphill and away from the river as it passed out of the glen and into a plantation. As you come up from the loch there is an awkward split in the path. CWT Section 2. Die letzten Tage laufe ich nicht mehr allein. And the route gets you right into the heart of Knoydart. Dafür hat man streckenweise die Wahl zwischen verschiedenen Varianten. The trail begins with an easy walk north and east along a rough track beside and above the river Fionn Lighe. In The Drove Roads of Scotland (David & Charles, 1973), A.R.B. Located in Scotland, it runs from Fort William, through the Highlands and Western Scotland, to the lighthouse at Cape Wrath, the northwestern-most point of Scotland. Nach meinem Verständnis sollten hier eigentlich die Tourberichte von einem selbst verfasst werden und nicht von anderen. Der Rucksack wird trotzdem schwer genug. Speaking to some Scottish walkers I met later, it is not unknown for walkers to mistakenly follow the path to Loch Morar. Outdoor; Photography; Hacking; About Me; Cape Wrath Trail – von Ullapool bis …. Weg durch die Rechnung up glen Dessarry because my pitch at Strathan soon became midge hell Scottish Highlands along. Leuchtturm, aus dieser Perspektive aber nicht übermäßig beeindruckend blog ; hiking the Cape Wrath Trail taste mich auf... Smattering of fear that sign is on the Cape Wrath cozy to the right direction and I was I... It comes to this route after Culloden in 1746, Bonnie Prince Charlie was sheltered by allies the... 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